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13.06.2006

The Aquarium - How it works

Hamburger Mat Filter (HMF), sand soil, CO2, water changes, fertilizer & Co.

Regarding aquarium books or relying on the advice of most fish dealer, you will come only in rare cases to an aquarium system as it is presented here.

The reasons derive mainly in the commercial sector and in the traditional dullness with that obsolete knowledge, such as the allegedly "cold feet" mantra, is repeated.

The two aquariums, which are discussed in this article, are running stable for years following this principles.

Traditionally in most cases it is recommended to use aquarium gravel in the 3-4 mm grain size, layer a soil nutrient at bottom and using a heated floor to let the aquarium water flow through the soil. Additionally an external filter with bioballs or similar filter material with fantastic surface for biological filtration is offered. A carbon dioxide fertilization is, understandably, for the pet shop a lucrative deal. This always comes alonge with the referral to keep Ancistrus Catfish, Siamese Algae Eater and Black Molly for algae control. That this recommendations remains valid is confirmed by an article in the DATZ 03/2006.

I have also set up my aquariums in the early years accordingly and have spent a lot of money to sit in front of an aquarium infested with algae, which only a few plants that were able to grow. The substrate was clogged very quickly with uneaten food and duff and the nutrients in the soil resulting in eutrophicated water. Another problem were also the weaknesses diseases coming along with the poor water conditions. The outrageous expensive filter material in the external filter had not kept its promise, not to mention the tiresome cleaning. With frequent water changes and cleaning of the bottom ground the system could be kept up to some degree, therefore it has lasted quite a long time until I looked about a better alternative.

I think the most important step towards a functioning aquarium, with which you can be confident for a long time, is the combination of the so called Hamburg Mat Filter with fine-grained aquarium sand.

Hamburger Mat Filter (HMF)

HMF in an excellent way of combining a effective bio filter with a flow filter. Detailed descriptions are available on the Internet. Here are only the major advantages of this filter discussed in summary:

  • Due to the large intake surface a low flow rate of the filter material is achieved (preferably 5 to 10 cm per min), which leads to an optimal biological filtration, since bacteria feel more comfortable than in strong currents. The small suction power of the filter makes him the ideal partner for fish breeding, as no juveniles could be sucked.

  • The filter works almost maintenance-free, because the filter material is not clogged, but the duff is gathering behind the mat, where it can be easily removed if needed. Thus, the sensitive system of micro-organisms need not be disturbed with no need of filter cleaning. This leads to very stable, buffered water parameters that are optimal for fish and plants.

  • Due to the inner filter system, no hose hang outside that can become untight.

  • The filter is very unexpensive, because it requires only a filter mat and a flow pump. In small aquariums, even a simple air lifter is sufficient.
  • Many people complain about that the filter takes up too much space in the aquarium and act as a foreign object. But there are opportunities to incorporate the HMF saving space and the filter mat is fully integrated into the aquarium after a time that can be supported by planting it for example with Java Moss.

    Sandy soil

    The biggest advantage of sand in contrast to the often praised gravel often is that no organic material penetrates into the soil and thus nothing is fouling. However, you have to despence on a soil nutrient, but that is for the most plants not necessary. With a regular flow the duff will not accumulate on the free floor, but in the planted areas metabolized by bacteria, until it is fine enough to float in the water and get into the filter. Thus, the soil remains visually clean and there is no need for cleaning. The duff in the corners and behind the plants should not be eliminated from the aquarium floor, as this reduces the bacterial mass, which assumes the initial processes of decomposition.

    Water change

    The importance of regular water changes can not be diminished even by the best bio-filter. The end product of aerobic degradation processes is the nitrate, which accumulates in the water. With many well-growing plants this process can be slowed down, but with normal fish stocking the accumulating nitrate has to be removed. This is done most easily with a water change. Anaerobic nitrate filters or resins that are binding nitrates are for common aquariums too costly. If it is possible to use the tap water directly, it is advisable to use a hose for direct filling and draining. Most fish tolerate the temperature difference at 30 - 50 percent water changes very well. In the winter, several small water changes are better. If the water quality is acceptable water conditioner is not needed, since it reduces the effect of the plants fertilizer, thereby causing only costs without a significant benefit in most cases.

    Illumination und CO2

    Whether a CO2 fertilization is required depends often on the used illumination, its duration and the fish and plants stocking. In general, the CO2 content of the water should be at about 10 to 20 mg / liter. With appropriate testing kits that is easy to check. In general, the tendency is the more intense and longer the light is chosen and the more plants are in the pool the more CO2 is needed. Fish are releasing CO2 through their breathing, but don't think about an overstocking to increase the CO2 content.

    For me an intense illumination (HQI) with short illumination time (8 hours) and a large quantity of plants with CO2 fertilization has emerged as the optimum. This aquarium with 525 l remains visually almost completely algae with an incredible plant growth for years. The biggest maintenance required is the trimming of the plants. In return you will be rewarded that oxygen bubbles are rising toward the end of the illumination time that looks really great.

    In a second pool, I have chosen a less intense lighting (2 lamps) with a short illumination time of 8 hours above 150 liters of water. The plants are growing much slower in this basin, but also clean and algae free. A additional CO2 fertilization is not needed in this aquarium.

    Plant Fertilizer

    I ferilize my plants with Ferrdrakon, a basic fertilizer sold on the Internet for aquarium plants. In many aquarium forums this fertilizer is praised and I commit. Even the plant fertilizer from Easylife can be highly recommended.

    Assistants

    If one has the ability and the appropriate fish stocking, why not consider to keep freshwater shrimp. These cute animals are really capable to eliminate a large amounts of algae, in opposition to the former often recommended Ancistrus Catfish, Siamese Algae Eater or Black Molly.

    Conclusion

    One should not spend much money on unnecessary or harmful equipment, which don't leads in the end to impressive results.

    The Hamburg Mat filter combined with a sandy ground, plus a regarding of lighting CO2 fertilization, a good plant fertilizer and regular water changes are the ingredients for truly magical aquarium where fish and plants feel well.

    © Andreas Jδger

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